Cold marinated fried chicken is one of my favorite summer dishes. Namban-zuke is a classic summer dish in which fried protein and fresh vegetables are marinated in a tangy, sweet, and savory mixture of dashi, shoyu, rice vinegar, and mirin. It is always served cold, making it wonderfully refreshing during the warm summer months. The name namban reflects the historical moment when deep-frying was introduced to Japan by the Portuguese, the first Europeans to arrive in the 16th century via Southeast Asia. Their tall noses, large eyes, red hair, and height astonished the Japanese, who called them Namban-jin, the "southern barbarians." I often make a double or triple batch, store it in the refrigerator, and enjoy it over the next three to four days. The flavors continue to develop overnight, making the leftovers just as delicious. Although the dish is served cold, the dried Japanese red chile pepper provides a gentle warming quality that beautifully balances the cool temperature of the marinade. In this recipe, I use chicken thighs, but the preparation is wonderfully versatile. Chicken breast, salmon, cod, swordfish, sardines, scallops, fluke, and even pork all pair beautifully with this bright, cooling marinade. Seasonal vegetables can also be varied. I often use onion, carrot, fennel, radishes, radicchio, and fennel leaves, depending on the season and what is available. Ingredients (Serves 3–4) Marinade 1 cup dashi stock 2 tablespoons sugar ¼ cup mirin ¼ cup regular shoyu (soy sauce) ½ cup rice vinegar 1–2 akatogarashi (Japanese dried red chile peppers), tops removed and seeded Vegetables 1 small onion (about 5 ounces), thinly sliced 1 small carrot (about 2 ounces), cut into thin julienne 3 red radishes (about 2 ounces), cut into thin julienne 1 small fennel bulb (about 2 ounces), thinly sliced Fennel leaves, for garnish (optional) Radicchio, thinly sliced, for serving (optional) Chicken 1½ pounds boneless chicken thighs, skin on All-purpose flour or cake flour, for dusting Neutral frying oil (such as canola) Instructions 1. Prepare the Vegetables Cut the onion in half, then slice each half thinly crosswise. Cut the carrot into 2-inch lengths, then into thin julienne. Cut the radishes into thin julienne. Slice the fennel bulb thinly crosswise. Arrange the vegetables evenly in the bottom of a 6 × 8-inch container. 2. Make the Marinade Combine the dashi stock, sugar, mirin, and shoyu in a saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Add the rice vinegar and akatogarashi, return to a simmer, then turn off the heat. Pour about half of the hot marinade over the vegetables. 3. Prepare the Chicken Trim any excess skin or fat from the chicken thighs. Cut each thigh into four pieces and lightly dust all sides with flour. 4. Fry the Chicken Heat about 1½ inches of oil to 350°F. Fry the chicken in batches, maintaining the oil temperature between 330°F and 340°F. Cook each batch for about 4 to 5 minutes, depending on thickness, until fully cooked and lightly golden. Transfer the chicken briefly to paper towels. While the chicken is still hot, arrange the pieces over the vegetables and pour the remaining hot marinade evenly over the top. Press the chicken gently so it absorbs the marinade. Place the container in a large bowl filled with ice water to cool quickly. Once cooled, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 to 3 hours. For an even deeper flavor, marinate overnight. 5. Serve If using, arrange a small amount of sliced radicchio in each serving bowl. Top with the marinated vegetables and chicken, garnish with fennel leaves, and spoon a few tablespoons of the marinade over each serving. Serve well chilled.
