Why This Watch Matters This large single-button chronograph in stainless steel has a slight twist unique to Eberhard in this era. The Full Story Eberhard & Co. watches are really impressive in person. The finishing is on par with the best in the mid-century watchmaking world, and, frankly, the brand name looks really good on a dial. Chronographs are where Eberhard really hit its stride, especially with the Extra-Fort family. This example falls under what collectors refer to as the Pre-Extra Forts, dating back to before the classification was added to the dial but featuring all the same characteristics of the model line. These chronographs stand out due to their unique chronograph function and larger case sizes compared to their contemporaries. This example of Eberhard's Pre-Extra Fort chronograph features a large nearly 40mm stainless steel case with a flat bezel and interesting angular lugs. The diameter would have been considered huge in the 1940s, while today it falls within standard sizing. The watch may feature two buttons on the three o’clock side, but it's actually a single-button chronograph (also known as a monopusher) with start, stop, and reset all operated by the pusher at two o’clock. The button below the crown works as a slide lock that can be slid toward the crown to lock the primary pusher from being engaged. The rationale behind this was to prevent accidental activation of the chronograph and any mishaps during timing. Beyond the case size and movement quirks, the Pre-Extra Fort we have here stands out as truly expertly designed down to every detail. As with many Eberhards of this era, the detail of the dial printing and layout is mesmerizing to dive into. We were particularly stuck by the smart use of gold-tone hands on a chronograph dial; with a lot going on, this ensures the time of day stands out at a glance. The outer tachymeter scale is also extremely well designed, allowing for two minutes or full rotations around the dial of timing without looking overly cluttered. This is achieved by forgoing many of the three digit numbers of a tachymeter scale's first 30 seconds, this Eberhard starts scaling for 120 units per hour under six o'clock. The larger numbers before 120 are rarely used anyways. With the extra dial real estate, Eberhard added a second ring to allow for timing all the way down to 30 units per hour. This watch has developed a unique patina throughout, giving it that classic vintage watch vibe that we've grown to really appreciate. We paired this Eberhard with our Sea Blue Calfskin Watch Strap to match and accentuate the blue dial printing of the tachymeter scale as well as the blued steel chronograph seconds hand. For more information about vintage Eberhard and just what makes these watches so special, check out this HODINKEE article. The Fine Print Maker: Eberhard & Co.Model: Pre-Extra Fort ChronographReference: N/AYear: Circa Late 1940sCase No: 1020155Material: Stainless steelDimensions: 39.5mm diameter; 13.5mm thicknessCrystal: PlexiglassLume: NoCaliber: Eberhard, manually-wound, caliber 16000 (modified Valjoux 65)Bracelet/Strap: HODINKEE Sea Blue Calfskin Watch StrapLug Width: 20mmBox/Papers: No What we Love and What You Should Know This Eberhard is in great vintage condition, especially if you enjoy a nice honest patina. The case has some light scratches from normal use. The facets on the top of all the lugs are clearly visible. There's a light nick in the case side near nine o'clock. The pushers are functioning well, with the bottom pusher sliding properly. The caseback has scratches. The dial has a very warm and distinct patina with slight spotting and some scratches throughout, as you might expect to find on a watch like this. The printed scales are still crisp, and the blue tachymeter scale has aged to a soft mid-tone blue. The hour markers and hands show signs of light oxidation. The dial, case, crown, and movement are signed by Eberhard. This watch was photographed on a 175mm/6.9inch wrist.
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