90pts Vinous MediaThe 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Village is aged in 25% new oak. There’s bright red berry fruit, light sous-bois and a hint of potpourri blossom on the well-defined nose. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery tannins. Modest depth, cohesive with a gradual crescendo on the finish; this is definitely a level up from the previous vintage. It took me a few minutes to locate Antoine Gouges in the maze of outbuildings in Nuits Saint-Georges. It’s one of those places that looks deceptively small from the front entrance into the original family maison. Behind lies a tasting room for visitors, the winery, various outbuildings and warehouses. Once found, a little flustered since he thought our rendezvous was 30 minutes later, we settled down to taste through their 2022s. “The flowering was good,” Gouges explains. “It was hot and dry, but we suffered hail twice with a lot of rain in late June when we lost 30% of the crop. The vineyard of Fontaine Jacquinot was wiped out. [Interestingly, an hour before, Denis Chevillon had told me that he had only lost around 10% of the crop in those areas, though hail can be so localized that it can mean a difference between one row and the next.] The rain helped with the maturity of the grapes. Picking was from August 30, with the whites and the reds beginning on September 1 and 2, cropped at 27hL/ha [a figure noticeably smaller than others]. Everything was de-stemmed. We had an early malo, probably because we use low SO2 during vinification, and the cellars are not that cold at this time of the year.” This was a good set of wines from Gouges, capped by two wondrous Nuits Saint-Georges from Les Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges. The entry-level regional and village crus were mostly bottled after the 2023 harvest. Occasionally, I wonder whether that additional winter in barrel might give them a little more stuffing? Otherwise, those who appreciate the Gouges style of winemaking, which I feel has been fine-tuned in the last five or six years, will find much to like in 2022. - By Neal Martin on November 2023 TerroirThis cuvée comes from vineyards surrounding the village of Nuits-Saint-Georges in the southern portion of the Côte de Nuits, where the soils are notably stony, iron-rich limestone with layers of clay. This geology is responsible for the classic Nuits character: depth, structure, and a savory mineral register beneath the fruit. The hillside exposures range from southeast to due south, allowing even ripening and warmth while still benefiting from evening temperature drops that preserve freshness and aromatic lift.The 2022 vintage in Burgundy was marked by warmth, but not excess heat, producing wines that are ripe and supple yet grounded by vibrant acidity and precise tannin structure. Gouges, known for an unashamedly traditional and terroir-first style, presents the vintage with rigor, earth, and classical bones, avoiding gloss or overt plushness. Winemaking & Technical NotesMade from 100% Pinot Noir, harvested by hand at optimal ripeness. Fermentation is carried out in cement and stainless-steel vats, with careful extraction that emphasizes phenolic clarity and tannin integrity over density. Aging takes place in French oak barrels, with a conservative use of new oak (typically 10–20%), allowing the structure of the terroir to speak clearly.The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered, preserving subtle aromatic compounds and texture. Alcohol is typically in the 13–13.5% range, maintaining tension and elegance. Gouges prioritizes cellar longevity, and the style remains firm and architectural in youth. Tasting NotesThe nose opens with black cherry, red currant, and wild raspberry, layered with dried sage, rose hip, and cracked stone. As the wine evolves in the glass, deeper notes of black tea, cedar bark, and warm iron emerge.On the palate, it is structured and focused, showing precision over opulence. Flavors of red and black berries, pomegranate skin, and sloe plum are supported by high-tension tannins that feel finely shaped yet firm. The mineral character—earth, flint, and subtle iron—runs directly through the mid-palate, giving the wine a savory, almost architectural core. The finish is long, dry, and quietly powerful, with echoes of forest floor and spice. This is a classic Nuits-Saint-Georges: not soft, not showy, but deep, grounded, and persistent. Food Pairing & ServiceServe at 58–62 °F (14–17 °C) in a wide Burgundy glass. Decant 45–90 minutes, especially if opened within the next few years—this will help soften the youthful structure and reveal floral detail.Pair with dishes that allow umami and earth to complement the wine’s tannin frame: Roast duck with cherry or red wine jus Mushroom ragù over fresh pappardelle Herb-crusted rack of lamb Comté, Tomme de Savoie, or aged Époisses Roasted root vegetables with rosemary and garlic Drink 2026–2040+. Patience will be rewarded as the tannins soften and the aromatics gain depth, revealing the wine’s inner finesse.
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