Lisa Perrotti Brown, Robert Parker, Sept. 2019, 96P: Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2016 Quella slips seductively out of the glass with notes of warm black plums, blueberry preserves, licorice and crème de cassis with suggestions of wild sage, pencil lead, camphor and Marmite toast. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is like a tightly wound spring, featuring bags of black fruit and earthy nuances and a solid, grainy frame, finishing long and refreshing. BOND notes: 2016 brought forward the character of this steeply sloped, south-facing vineyard. After bouts of summer heat, a temperate autumn helped bring together the subtle nuance of this site. Harvest began in mid-September and concluded on September 30th. Quella is defined by an ethereal levity coupled with an agility and poise on the palate. Like a ballerina, the wine exhibits a light grace that belies its underlying energy and strength. The 2016 offers this and more, with supporting facets to the nose that are decidedly earth-driven. On the palate, it strikes a balance between fresh bramble fruits and savory minerality. The finish is intensely layered, revealing more of what lies beneath than typical vintages at this early stage.
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