The Challenger 40133 lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. Cross-referenced as ALS-7234-405, it is the genuine Challenger part — same part number, same fit, and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same. Specifications Part number: ALS-7234-405 Brand: Challenger Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable Sheaves are the grooved pulleys the cable turns on — usually two per column on a two-post, more on a four-post with its runway and crossbeam pulleys. Each one rides a pin on a bushing and has to spin true so the cable tracks in the groove. When the groove wears wide or the bushing pushes out the side, the cable no longer sits where it should and starts sawing itself apart on every cycle. There is no cheaper insurance on a lift than fresh cable and sound sheaves. A cable set costs a fraction of a day's labor; a dropped vehicle costs the car, the downtime, and possibly somebody standing next to it. These parts hold real weight in the air. The moment a cable shows broken strands or a sheave won't turn true, the lift comes out of service until it's fixed — no exceptions worth making. Related parts for this lift The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit. Cable, Lifting RF for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322133 103202133 Cable, Lifting LR for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322138 103202138 Cable, Eq. CL12-0 - Challenger - 12703-0x Cable, Eq. CL12-0 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-0 Cable, Eq. CL12-1 - Challenger - 12703-1x Cable, Eq. CL12-1 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-1 Replacing your lifting cable Getting a tension part in and adjusted is well within a capable shop's reach, but it's exacting: correct routing, correct order on the retention hardware, and careful equalization so no single lock takes the load first. Rush the adjustment and the lift arrives at the top crooked. For that reason the whole procedure is worth following step by step. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables. Find the right part for your lift If you are not sure this part matches your setup, the fastest check is the visual breakdown: open our Challenger parts lookup, pick your model, and match your part against the drawing where every item is numbered. Can't read the model plate? our guide to finding your model number shows exactly where it lives on each lift type, and we are a phone call away if you would rather have us confirm it. Signs a cable or sheave is worn out Compare side to side. On a two-post, both cables should look and feel alike; a marked difference — one furrier, one rustier, one with more broken wires — flags the one that's failing. Also check that each cable still sits fully in every sheave groove and hasn't jumped a pulley. A cable riding the edge of a groove instead of the bottom wears fast and can pop off. Parts commonly replaced at the same time When a cable or sheave goes, the rest of the set is usually close behind — they share the same hours and the same wear. Most shops replace all the cables together and refresh the sheaves in the same visit, because the labor to open the columns is the same whether you change one part or the set. Ask us to build the full cable-and-sheave kit for your lift and you order once. Safety notes Treat every cable and sheave on a lift as load-bearing until proven otherwise — because it is. Replace tension parts in matched sets so they wear evenly, never reuse a cable that has been kinked or run slack, and set the carriage on its mechanical locks before you put a wrench on anything under tension. A cable that lets go does not fail politely. Before you order Have the lift's model, serial, and the old part in front of you when you order. Tension parts vary by production year and by standard-versus-extended height, and the fastest way to get the right one is to match length and fittings against what came off. Call and we will confirm before it ships. Not sure this fits? Here's how to check Pull the number off your lift's model plate first — model and serial both. Manufacturers run mid-cycle revisions that keep the model name but change hardware, so two lifts with the same name on the column can take different parts. The serial is what removes the guesswork. Second check: compare the old part against this listing before you order. Length, mounting pattern, and thread sizes tell most of the story. If anything doesn't line up, or if the old part is too worn or broken to measure, call us with photos — we work on these lifts every week and can usually confirm fit from a picture and the lift's serial faster than you can dig through a parts diagram. Why buy your Challenger lifting cable from Auto Lift Services We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the ALS-7234-405 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.
