The Challenger 40135 lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. Cross-referenced as ALS-7234-406, it is the genuine Challenger part — same part number, same fit, and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same. Specifications Part number: ALS-7234-406 Brand: Challenger Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable Rust is the quiet killer of lift cable. A shop in a salt-belt climate, or a lift that sat in a damp corner for a few years, loses cable to corrosion long before it ever wears out mechanically. Surface rust you can live with; rust that has eaten into the strands or frozen a sheave bushing you cannot. Once the steel is pitting under the outer wires, the rated strength is already gone. The lock-release cable is the thin cable that pulls all the safety pawls out of the ladders at once so the lift can descend evenly. When it stretches, frays, or a return spring weakens, one lock hangs while the others let go and the lift comes down cocked. It's a small, cheap part doing a safety-critical job, and a lift that won't release evenly is a lift that isn't safe to run. Related parts for this lift The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit. Cable, Lifting RF for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322133 103202133 Cable, Lifting LR for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322138 103202138 Cable, Eq. CL12-0 - Challenger - 12703-0x Cable, Eq. CL12-0 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-0 Cable, Eq. CL12-1 - Challenger - 12703-1x Cable, Eq. CL12-1 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-1 Replacing your lifting cable Cable and sheave replacement usually happen together, since a worn sheave will chew a fresh cable and a bad cable scores a new sheave. Plan on inspecting and, if needed, replacing both while the lift is open, then equalizing the cables so the locks land together. It's methodical work with a clear right way to do it, laid out in full in the step-by-step guide. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables. Find the right part for your lift Landed here but not 100% sure it is your part? Grab the model and serial from the data plate and open our Challenger parts lookup for the visual breakdown — the manufacturer-style drawing with every item numbered so you can match yours exactly. Plate missing? our guide to finding your model number helps, and we identify lifts from photos every week if you would rather ask. Signs a cable or sheave is worn out The tell on a cable is usually visual and tactile at once: fraying and popped wires you can see, broken strands you feel as burrs when you wipe it down. Check where the cable turns each sheave, because that's where it works hardest. A groove worn to a sharp V instead of a smooth radius, or a sheave that won't spin freely, means the pulley is chewing the cable — replace both. Parts commonly replaced at the same time Order the companions now, not later. A cable job is the right time to refresh sheaves, pins, and the lock-release cable, since the hard part — getting into the columns — is already done. Give us your lift's model and serial and we will put together the full wear kit so nothing is left half-finished. Safety notes A worn cable gives warning — a strand here, some cording there — and a shop that ignores those warnings is the one that has a bad day. Inspect at every service, replace before the interval if you see damage, and never trust a slack or kinked cable back into service. Set the lift on its locks before touching anything. Before you order Ordering tip: cables come in specific lengths and end styles per lift and height variant, so read the numbers off your data plate before you buy. If you are replacing a set, order the set — and if a sheave is grooved, add it now while the lift is open rather than making a second trip. Check your lift's serial before ordering The most common reason a lift part comes back is not a defect — it is a revision mismatch. Manufacturers change sub-parts between production runs while keeping the same lift model name, so "it fits my lift model" is not always enough. The model plate carries the serial number that pins your lift to a specific run, and that is the number that settles which version of this part belongs on your lift. Can't find the plate? Measure the old part — overall length, bolt-hole spacing, thread size on anything threaded — and photograph it from a couple of angles. Send that with your lift's brand and rough age and we will match it against the parts breakdowns we service from every week. Why buy your Challenger lifting cable from Auto Lift Services We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the ALS-7234-406 is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.
