The Challenger B40135 lifting cable is the direct replacement for the Challenger lift it came off of. Cross-referenced as ALS-7234-406B, it is the genuine Challenger part — same part number, same fit, and same working specification as the one already on your lift. Ordering the Challenger lifting cable from us gets you the OEM piece that matches the lift, not an aftermarket knock-off that is close but not the same. Specifications Part number: ALS-7234-406B Brand: Challenger Type: Genuine OEM lifting cable The lock-release cable is the thin cable that pulls all the safety pawls out of the ladders at once so the lift can descend evenly. When it stretches, frays, or a return spring weakens, one lock hangs while the others let go and the lift comes down cocked. It's a small, cheap part doing a safety-critical job, and a lift that won't release evenly is a lift that isn't safe to run. Cable length and end fittings are what make a tension part fit, and they vary more than people expect. Older asymmetric lifts ran a long cable and a short cable; some columns use a threaded stud end, others a button or wedge. Order by the lift's actual routing, not a guess, because a cable that's an inch off or ends in the wrong fitting won't tension right no matter how you adjust it. Related parts for this lift The parts below are commonly ordered alongside this one — cables, sheaves, seals, and hardware wear on similar schedules, and most repairs go faster when the whole set is done in one visit. Cable, Lifting RF for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322133 103202133 Cable, Lifting LR for Q4P12 - Challenger - 10322138 103202138 Cable, Eq. CL12-0 - Challenger - 12703-0x Cable, Eq. CL12-0 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-0 Cable, Eq. CL12-1 - Challenger - 12703-1x Cable, Eq. CL12-1 (Set of 2) - Challenger - 12703-1 Replacing your lifting cable Replacing a lift cable is straightforward hand-tool work, but the details decide whether the lift lands level afterward — routing each cable correctly over its sheaves, connecting the hard-to-reach end first, and setting the adjusting nuts so every lock clicks together. Before you cut the old cable off, lay the new one alongside it to confirm the length is right. Because a mis-routed or unequal set makes the lift arrive crooked, the full procedure is worth following start to finish. Full step-by-step: how to replace 2-post lift cables. Find the right part for your lift Want to be sure before you buy? Pull the model and serial off your lift's plate and open our Challenger parts lookup to open the exploded parts breakdown for your model — find your part on the drawing and you know it fits. New to finding your model number? our guide to finding your model number covers it, or send a photo of the plate and we will read it for you. Signs a cable or sheave is worn out The five-second condemn list: any broken strand, any cording or unwinding, any kink, rust that has pitted into the wire, or a shiny worn flat. On sheaves: oversize groove, crack, or a bushing pushed out. Find one of these and the lift stays down until the part is replaced — a cable holding a car up is not a place to give the benefit of the doubt. Parts commonly replaced at the same time Rarely is a tension part a solo job. A worn cable often means the sheaves it rides are grooved, and a failed sheave chews cables — so plan on doing them together. We can pull the matched cable set plus sheaves and pins for your exact lift so nothing gets missed and you are not back in there next month. Safety notes The whole reason a lift has redundant locks is that cables and sheaves are wear items that will eventually fail — your job is to replace them before they get there. Do not run a lift on a cable with broken strands or a sheave with a chipped flange, and never work under a load resting on tension parts you do not trust. Drop it to the locks first. Before you order Get it right the first time: note your lift's model and serial, count the cables in the set, and check the sheaves while you are at it. Ordering matched tension parts together saves a return and a repeat teardown. If you are unsure which length your lift takes, send a photo of the plate. Ordering the right revision Before this goes in the cart, grab two things off your lift: the model number and the serial number, both on the manufacturer's plate. The serial matters more than most people expect — lift makers revise components between production runs without renaming the lift, and the run your serial falls in determines which revision of this part is correct. If you are working from a failed part rather than a plate, measure what you have and photograph how it mounts. Send that to us along with the lift brand, and we will check it against the same parts breakdowns our own techs use in the field before you commit to the order. Why buy your Challenger lifting cable from Auto Lift Services We install, inspect, and repair Challenger lifts every week — the ALS-7234-406B is a part we handle in the shop, not a random SKU we drop-ship. The phone answers if you have a question mid-install — call 800-674-9302 — and every part ships genuine, no aftermarket substitution unless you ask for it.
